Refurbished Powis Parker PhotoPress System - PPPhotopress
5999.00 UsedCondition OutOfStock

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Refurbished Powis Parker PhotoPress System - PPPhotopress

Part #: R4MYRPPPHOTOP
Brand: Powis Parker
  • Won't damage photo and glossy materials
  • Graphical user interface with minimal training required
  • 37 photo binding capacity
  • 90 Day Warranty
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Product Description

Say no to damaged materials from heat binding. The Powis PhotoPress System provides a fast and simple method of binding process turning silver halide, dye sub and inkjet prints into an amazing photobook finish. Instead of using heat, which can damage documents, the PhotoPress uses pressure to bind projects and books. It features simple and user-friendly operation, become an instant expert within minutes of operation. Have the opportunity to cut your process time and cost down with the Powis PhotoPress System. Invest to equipment that will save you in the future!
Please note that our refurbished products have been inspected by our technicians and function like-new. We have a limited inventory of these items at the special refurbished prices. They are only available while supplies last.

Product Details

  • Dimensions: 19.6" D x 22" W x 23" H (49.8cm D x 56cm W x 58.4cm H)
  • Weight: 190 lbs (86 kg)
  • Photograph/Page Sizes: Max. 12" H x 13" W (300mm x 330mm), Min. 4" H x 6" W (100mm x 152mm)
  • Book Thickness: 0.5" Max. (approx. 37 photos)
  • Binding Time: 60 seconds
  • Start up Time: <10 seconds
  • Power Requirements: Universal Input Power Supply 100-240VAC, 50/60 Hz, USA --- 120VAC, 50/60 Hz, 3 amps, EU --- 230VAC, 50 Hz,1.5 amps, Japan --- 100 VAC, 50/60 Hz, 3 amps
  • Regulatory Approvals: UL, CUL, CE, MITI Pending

Demonstration Video

Transcript: So we’re gonna build this book, starting from the front of the book down. And the key thing to do is to get your materials organized before you start. The pages should be placed in front of the book down. And the signature sheet should be placed on the table with the shiny side up and the fold facing outward. The reason for leaving the fold facing out is that’s how we will load it in the machine. We’re gonna load it really in the opposite way that we've done in the past, where the signature fold has been in this corner. We now want to put the fold on the outside and you’ll see why that’s impor ... Read More

So we’re gonna build this book, starting from the front of the book down. And the key thing to do is to get your materials organized before you start. The pages should be placed in front of the book down. And the signature sheet should be placed on the table with the shiny side up and the fold facing outward. The reason for leaving the fold facing out is that’s how we will load it in the machine. We’re gonna load it really in the opposite way that we've done in the past, where the signature fold has been in this corner. We now want to put the fold on the outside and you’ll see why that’s important in a minute.

So, the first page is always a little bit more complicated because we’re adding the end leaf and the title page. So our picture that’s gonna show through the window, that’s gonna go face down on the machine. Then we’ll add our end lay and our first photo of the book. So just add those and we’ll put that on the top. As I go through the book, I’m giving each page a little tap. So, beginning one’s there again, the pilot photograph and in the first signature was our end leaf, and we’ll try to pull.Just an important side note, whenever you put an end leaf in, never assume you got it right because you probably have it in the wrong direction. I always like to physically open it and give it a little bit more thought. Make sure that is the direction you want it opening. It’s so easy to make the book with the end leaf backwards and then basically start over and, at that point, waste the book. Always check if the end leaf folds in the right direction.

So, from here, we will go to our next photos. And a small point that makes the assembly a little bit faster if you don’t fully open the signature, it’ll assemble faster and actually come out a little *[2:54] so you don’t have to put it that close. The photo that’s on top is gonna be the next photo in the sequence because *[3:01], which is what I just did. The next photo slides straight into the signature. The next photo in the stack, flip over and slide it. Now, when the book is created and finally turned over and read, that will be the next one, next one, etc., etc. So you’ll have the right order. So that sequence. They can be rough like this, then drop it in the press and give it a few taps. Here’s a panoramic. Again, slide across first photo. Turn over, slide in next photo. Now when it’s opened, you’ll have the right order. Machine, tap again.

And another important note, when I’m handling this signature, I’m not just dropping it in, but of course, I’m not squeezing it. You don’t want to grab this because that would tack it down. And even if you tried to square it up, you’d want to square it  in the machine. So I’m handling this gently so it doesn’t stick ahead of time. I just put it in *[4:30]. I’m more or less picking it up from underneath and then tossing it to the machine. And at this point, you can give it even a little toss if you like and that would help push it to the edge into the corner. Slide in, turn over, drop into the machine. Slide in, turn over, drop into the machine. Last one. End leaf. Put in the machine.

Tap, tap. Tap, tap. And then it’s good to go. If you have quite a thick book, we could give it a little squeeze down like so if necessary. Close and  So, we have our book. And the advantage to this technique now are gonna be these nice, smooth edges. That makes sense in that the edges are now more justified. These outer edges that we cared about being lined up, we justified against the edges of the machine.The other benefit are the nice, tight lines between the signatures, small gaps. So, there you go. Good luck with your books and let’s hope you don’t have any trouble. Thank you.

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