Unpunched Paper by Color

Lighter weights keep your cost down for high volume printing, that's usually the deciding factor right there. Heavier weights add durability and a nicer feel for anything that's going to get handled a lot, like covers or dividers. If it's a standalone piece rather than a body page, lean heavier. For double sided interior pages, a mid range weight helps cut down on show through, which is more noticeable on colored stock than plain white.

Depends entirely on how it's getting bound in the end. Unpunched keeps your options open, run it through whatever punch pattern you need later, or skip binding altogether for flyers and handouts. Punched saves a step if you already know your exact binding style and hole pattern, but you're locked into that once it's punched. If you're using the paper for a mix of things, some bound, some not, the broader unpunched paper range is the safer default since it keeps every option open.

Most colored office paper works fine on both, but results can shift a bit depending on how toner versus ink lays down over a colored background instead of plain white. Darker, more saturated colors especially can change how printed text or graphics look compared to white paper, so run a test page first, particularly for anything color sensitive like a logo. If you need consistency across a big batch, print from the same lot in one run to avoid subtle shifts between manufacturing batches.

Buy all the paper you need in one order rather than reordering the same color down the line, since dye lots can drift slightly over time even under the same color name. If your project mixes paper weights or types, make sure they're from a compatible color line so tones actually match rather than assuming two products with the same name will look identical. The unpunched binding paper supplies range has more sizes if letter stock alone doesn't cover your project.